The bright blue of the Ionian Sea stretches endlessly below, while terraced hills burst into flame with magenta bougainvillea. Behind it all, Mount Etna rises, taller and more imposing than I had imagined. Around the piazzas, laughter bubbles up, a singer’s voice rises above the chatter, and the flicker of matchsticks lights the evening air. Above all, the locals’ deep love for their hometown. It takes time here for a visitor to move beyond spectator – to become part of this living
...